The walk to Armenteria was not so much about distance as it was about elevations. In spite of getting lost, we only walked 12 km, but we climbed up to 424 meters and then descended to 264 meters at Armenteira. My Health app said we climbed 36 floors!
We stayed at the Monastery in Armenteira, which we found to be a ‘thin place’ and has been the highlight of our Camino, specially the Pilgrim’s blessing that we received.
About half the walk was on paved surfaces, starting out with some pretty steep gradients from Combarro then graduating to a steady climb the rest of the way. It was sign posted, but we missed a couple of turns, probably because the arrows weren’t always obvious.
But we were rewarded with beautiful views on the way up
About half way up is a Mirador, a perfect spot for snacks and a selfie.
And soon after that the trail became a gradual climb on dirt roads.
Ken wanted to know where the vino was…
The last bit into Armenteira was the most technically challenging with a rocky descent
I rewarded myself with my all time favorite Spanish food at the cafe in Armenteira – Zamburinas or variegated scallops.
The monastery is a very special ‘thin place’. It was built in the 12th century, fell into ruins, but then was rebuilt between 1963 and 1989, at which point the Cistercian Sisters moved in and it became a functioning monastery again.
The church is simple and therefore all the more inviting, specially after all the Baroque churches we have seen recently.
We called ahead to reserve a room. It was simple, comfortable and quiet. And we were given some kiwi soap for our showers that was made by the nuns. That, and other soaps, oils and creams are available for sale in the tienda on site.
While the feeling of benevolent peace and tranquility pervades the whole monastery, I felt it most strongly in the cloister.
We attended vespers at 7pm – anyone can attend, most just the people staying at the monastery – where the beautiful singing of the sisters and the pilgrims blessing given to each of us, said in many different languages, made us very glad we had walked the Spiritual Variant.
Two Clines Traveling 